View of the famous Perito Moreno glacier in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

Travel Tips for Exploring El Calafate, Argentina (Patagonia)

Glaciers, Lagoons, Car Races, DUI Checkpoints, and Meat on a Plate: Travel tips to help you make the most of your visit to El Calafate – the gateway to glaciers.

As the plane began its descent into El Calafate, the first thing that came to mind as I looked out the window was … this looks a lot like New Mexico!  Well, New Mexico with a lot more water.  I immediately had a good feeling about the place.  Granted, that thought could’ve been clouded by the fact that I was now 25 hours into my journey from home in New Mexico via Houston, Buenos Aires international airport, taxi to the Buenos Aires domestic airport, and finally, El Calafate.  At that point, it would feel good to be nearly anywhere but on a plane.  

Much to the relief of our legs, my brother and I exited the plane and were excited to begin ten days of exploring Patagonia.  This first post will focus on one of the major hubs for exploring the southern Patagonia region of Argentina: El Calafate.  Here are some travel tips to help you make the most of your visit to this gateway to glaciers.

My first look at the landscape around El Calafate.
My first look at the landscape around El Calafate … a moonscape that reminded me of New Mexico.

And, as the plane turned, I suddenly saw this …

... and then the view got better
Welcome to Patagonia!

A Brief Overview of El Calafate

Founded in 1927, El Calafate is a small city of ~8,000 residents in the southern part of Argentina’s Patagonia region.  The area was originally populated by wool traders.  Then, in 1937, Perito Moreno National Park was established by the government of Argentina. This triggered the creation of roads to access the Park and help spur the growth of the town.  Today, El Calafate serves as a popular hub for exploring the spectacular glaciers and mountains in the region.

Welcome to El Calafate!
Welcome to El Calafate, Argentina’s Glacier Capital.

El Calafate gets its name from an evergreen, thorny shrub (Berberis buxifolia) known as calafate in Spanish. This shrub produces yellow flowers and a tasty berry that’s used for many desserts in southern Patagonia. The El Calafate tourism site warns that, according to one traditional story, “whoever eats calafate will return for more.” I enjoyed a calafate mousse dessert one evening and have to admit that is was tasty, and not too sweet. Not that I have a problem with too sweet.

El Calafate Mousse at Patagonia Brewery in El Calafate, Argentina
Calafate Mousse at Patagonia Brewery in El Calafate, Argentina

El Calafate is easy to navigate, although you’ll likely want to rent a car if you plan to explore the surrounding area.  The city center is located about 30 minutes from the El Calafate airport.  If you’re renting a car from the airport, you’ll want to be completely sober, as you’ll be passing through a mandatory police checkpoint on your way into town.  Getting busted with a DUI is probably not the way you’d like to start your trip.  The police were giving breathalyzers to drivers of most of the cars that I saw, including for me.  Given that my most recent drink was about 12 years ago, I wasn’t too worried. 

Police checkpoint between the El Calafate airport and city center.
Police checkpoint between the El Calafate airport and city center.
Some vehicles get more thorough treatment from drug sniffing dogs.
Some vehicles received a more thorough screening from a drug sniffing dog.

Things to do in El Calafate

Stroll along Av. del Libertador and visit the Artisan Market

You’ll no doubt spend time wandering up and down the main street (Av. del Libertador) of El Calafate, perhaps visiting the busy supermarket (La Anónima), shops, artisan market, and local restaurants. At least that’s what we did soon after arriving. The supermarket was handy for stocking up on water and snacks for hiking. We weren’t the only ones with that idea. It was a busy supermarket each time we visited.

Waiting in a long checkout line at the supermarket
Waiting in a long checkout line at the supermarket with my hiking supplies
A friendly street performer in El Calafate
A friendly street performer / vendor in El Calafate
Entrance to the outdoor artisan market off the main street in El Calafate.
Entrance to the outdoor artisan market off the main street in El Calafate.
In front of one of the restaurants, we saw three black-faced ibis searching the grass for food.
In front of one of the restaurants, we saw three black-faced ibis searching the grass for food.
Success!  Looks like this ibis caught a worm.
Success! Looks like this ibis caught a worm.

Meat on a Plate

Argentina is world-famous for steak so, assuming you eat meat, this is a no brainer. While you won’t necessarily find famous, world-class steak houses like the ones you’ll find in Buenos Aires, we enjoyed several top notch meals that included excellent cuts of meat.

We typically started our meals with empanadas, a pastry turnover that’s filled with beef. At one of our fancier meals, the empanadas were filled with wagyu beef, but I couldn’t really tell the difference with some of the other empanadas that I had. All of the empanadas were tasty.

Empanadas filled with beef
Empanadas filled with beef

Not surprisingly, our main course nearly always consisted of some kind of meat, and a lot of it. Many restaurants offer meat plates that provide you with a taste of different cuts of beef, chicken, and pork. One restaurant we visited had guanaco (closely related to llama) on the menu, so I decided to give it a try. Of all the different meat dishes I tried in Argentina, I generally preferred the tenderloin – a bit pricier but well worth it in my opinion.

Window display for one of the steak houses
Window display for one of the steak houses
Guanaco and a side of vegetables
Guanaco with a side of vegetables
Meat served on extremely hot rocks
Meat served on extremely hot rocks

Our visit to El Calafate also included our first taste of blood sausage and experiencing its unsettling texture. I had a feeling that eating cooked blood that’s mixed with a filler and packaged in a sausage casing would not be a winner for me. I was right. That will be my first and last taste of blood sausage.

The dreaded blood sausage pictured at the top right of the plate, with it's "interesting" texture.
The remains of a meat plate, and the dreaded blood sausage (top right of the plate) which looked like a crime scene after we cut into it.

To undo that image, let’s move on to dessert. To end the meal, I usually opted for dulce de leche crepes, many of which were excellent. The best ones were served warm, filled with caramel, topped with powdered sugar, and served with dulce de leche ice cream. They were sweet desserts, but a very tasty way to end the meal. Especially after tasting blood sausage. After eating so many desserts, you won’t be surprised to learn that I gained 5 lbs. on this trip. But it was worth it!

Dulce de leche crepes and ice cream.
Dulce de leche crepes and ice cream.

As for beer, the Patagonia region has a variety of craft beer to enjoy. One popular brewery, with locations throughout Argentina, is called Patagonia Brewing. I’ll write more about Patagonia craft beer in a future post about Bariloche, Argentina.

A visit to Patagonia Brewery on the main street of El Calafate
A visit to Patagonia Brewery on the main street of El Calafate
A dog makes himself comfortable during a lull at Patagonia Brewery.
A dog makes himself comfortable during a lull at Patagonia Brewery.

Perito Moreno Glacier / Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

Another obvious activity in the glacier capital of Argentina is to … drum roll please … visit a glacier.  The best place to see the glaciers is Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (aka Los Glaciares National Park or Glaciers National Park), home to 48 major glaciers and about 190 smaller glaciers.  Parque Nacional Los Glaciares is about a 90-minute drive from El Calafate. 

Typical scenery during the 90-minute drive from El Calafate to Parque Nacional los Glaciares ... IF you have good weather
Typical scenery during the 90-minute drive from El Calafate to Parque Nacional los Glaciares … IF you have good weather

Roughly 40% of the park is covered by giant ice fields, with some of them flowing into two big lakes, including Argentino Lake.  It makes for a spectacular setting.  As a bonus, we got to hear the impressive sound of large chunks of ice calving off the glacier AND we saw two Andean condors flying high above the mountains.  

View of the famous Perito Moreno glacier in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares
View of the famous Perito Moreno glacier in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

The entrance fee to the National Park was 12,000 pesos (about $12 each at the time of our visit), and we had the option to pay by credit card.  The only part that we didn’t like is discovering that we were required to get a on a bus if we wanted to go to the main glacier overlook area.  Feeling antisocial, we opted out of that option and took photos from other scenic overlook areas instead.

Towards the end of the road to the glaciers, you’ll find several tour operators that offer half-day and full-day tours / boat trips to the glaciers during high season.  Some of the longer trips include strapping on crampons and walking on a glacier. There are also opportunities to hike, mountain bike, or go horseback riding in the area.  

Launching point for boat tours of the glaciers
Launching point for boat tours of the glaciers
We saw two Andean condors flying above these mountains.
Friendly reminder not to feed the wildlife.
Friendly reminder not to feed the local wildlife
Another friendly reminder not to feed the local wildlife.
... and a friendly reminder not to run over the local wildlife
… and a friendly reminder not to run over the local wildlife

Birdwatching at Laguna Nimez Reserve

If you’re into birding, then it’s a no brainer that you should visit Laguna Nimez Reserve in El Calafate. Even if you’re not into birds, it’s still worth walking around the Reserve. Walking the trail gives you a different perspective of the local landscape with its variety of habitats, along with some nice views of the mountains in the distance.

The easy, flat, out-and-back trail is about 3 miles total, which takes about 2 hours since you’ll be stopping often to look at birds, plants, and scenery. There are many interpretive signs along the trail, which include pictures of the common bird species you can expect to see.  The easy walking trail at Laguna Nimez Reserve proved to be a perfect activity for our very sore legs, since it was the day after we did a strenuous hike in Chile.

An owl greets you outside of the small visitor center
An owl is there to greet you outside of the small visitor center

Welcome to Laguna Nimez!
Welcome to Laguna Nimez!

I ended up seeing 21 species during our 3-mile walk, most of which I’ve never heard of before. Needless to say, it took some time for me to confirm the identification of many of these birds. I used a combination of trail signs, Merlin sound ID, and two very mediocre bird apps to help me confirm the identifications.

For my fellow bird nerds, here’s what I saw during our walk:

  • Crested Duck
  • Red Shoveler
  • Chiloe Wigeon
  • Yellow-billed Pintail
  • Andean Duck
  • Chilean Flamingo
  • Red-gartered Coot
  • White-winged Coot
  • Southern Lapwing
  • Magellanic Snipe
  • Kelp Gull
  • Cinereous Harrier
  • Chimango Caracara
  • Wren-like Rushbird
  • Buff-winged Cinclodes
  • Austral Canastero
  • Blue-and-white Swallow
  • Grass Wren
  • House Sparrow
  • Rufous-collared Sparrow
  • Long-tailed Meadowlark
Long-tailed meadowlark
Long-tailed meadowlark
View of the lagoon with the mountains in the distance
View of the lagoon with the mountains in the distance
One of many helpful signs for bird identifications
One of many helpful signs for bird identification
Chilean flamingos hanging out in the distance
Chilean flamingos hanging out in the distance
Overlook with views of Laguna Nimez
Overlook with views of Laguna Nimez

If birding is not your thing, and walking on trails is not of interest, you can always pose for a corny photo outside of the visitor center. Which, of course, I did.

Photo opp outside of the visitor center
Corny photo opportunity outside of the visitor center

A day at the races: Auto racing at El Calafate’s Autódromo Enrique Freile

For motorsport enthusiasts, you may also be able to experience car racing at the Autódromo Enrique Freile rack track located ~6 miles outside of the city center of El Calafate. Autódromo Enrique Freile is a 3.8km (2.361 mile) circuit, with 15 turns, that opened in April 2023. In 2024, the track hosted the opening round of the Turismo Carretera, which happened to take place during our visit to El Calafate. The event included 43 competitors, with three ‘heats’ of 19 kilometers, and a ‘final’ of 95 kilometers.

Autódromo Enrique Freile on the outskirts of El Calafate
Autódromo Enrique Freile on the outskirts of El Calafate
The sound from the race carries all the way into town.
The sound from the race carries all the way into town.

Even if you don’t plan to attend an auto race at the track, a race could impact your trip in several ways. For example, during our birdwatching visit to the Laguna Nimez Reserve, we could hear the buzz of the race cars throughout our visit. Also, the traffic to and from the race can result in a long line of traffic at the police DUI checkpoint. On our return drive from Torres del Paine (Chile) to El Calafate, we were stuck in standstill traffic for about 30 minutes as a result. Plan accordingly if you are driving to or from the airport on a race day.

Burn off a few calories at the gym

With all the good food you’ll be eating, you might feel the urge to find a gym to burn off some calories. I usually make a point of visiting gyms during all of my trips as I think it’s fun to see the local gym culture in the places I visit. Plus, I enjoy working out. So, after my fourth serving of dulce de leche crepes in 3 days, I decided it was time for a workout.

After doing some research, I settled on Ouro Gym, tucked away on a dirt road a mile or two from the city center. The facility was clean, had all the equipment I was looking for, and I enjoyed my workout there. The main difference I noticed from the typical gyms I visit was the music. The gym’s TV and speakers played (at loud volume) a video of a concert from a popular Argentine band called La K’onga, which had a high-energy salsa vibe to it. The entrance fee for a gym day pass was 4000 pesos ($4) when I visited. I initially handed over a US$5 bill, but the man said, “no cambio”. So I handed over US $3 in singles and 800 pesos (all I had) and he waived me in.

The Ouro Gym in El Calafate
The Ouro Gym in El Calafate
Ouro Gym interior
Ouro Gym interior
Ouro Gym interior
Ouro Gym’s TV / speakers featured a live concert from the Argentine band called La K’onga.

Figure out how to get large souvenirs back home

Ok, this one is not necessarily a recommended activity, but it was one that I faced on my last day in El Calafate. During my visit to the Artisan market, one stall was operated by young woman (perhaps in her late teens) who was selling her art. One of the items she had on display was an Andean Condor. I asked how much the Andean Condor picture cost and she responded with 22000 pesos (US$ 22). It wasn’t exactly fine art, but that seemed like a very reasonable price for a unique souvenir, so I decided to support her entrepreneurial endeavors and bought it by handing her a US $20 bill and two $1000 peso notes.

That purchase decision introduced a new dilemma. How the in the hell will I get this Andean condor picture home? My brother and I thought it would be a fun challenge. My Plan A was to ship it. Plan B was to attempt to bring it on the plane. If those two options failed, then my Plan C was to donate it to a local kid who might enjoy it.

Too large to put in my bag, too awkward and expensive to ship it home.  How to get this souvenir home?
Too large to put in my bag, too awkward and expensive to ship home. How to get this unique souvenir home?

For Plan A, I visited an upscale store and asked how they ship large items abroad. The short answer was, they don’t. They directed me to a Western Union across the street. So, I crossed the street and found a very long line of people. Pressed for time, I immediately decided to scratch Plan A off my list.

As I walked along the main street, I was starting to lean towards Plan C, but then I stumbled across a small shop that appeared to sell some arts and crafts materials. In one aisle, I spotted two flat pieces of very thin cardboard that were intended to be folded up into boxes. I didn’t see anything else in the store that would work, so I grabbed the two boxes. Next, I spotted some mailing tape behind the counter. But first, I needed to figure out how to ask for it in Spanish. I pulled up google translate while I waited in what I thought was a line, before realizing that I first needed to take a number. So, I walked to the ticket dispenser, took a number, and waited around for a few more minutes before my number was called. Lucky 13.

I spot some mailing tape behind the counter.
I spot some mailing tape behind the counter.

I stepped up to the woman behind the counter and tried a google translation for mailing tape (cinta de correo), but that translation didn’t work out so well. After searching the aisles, she came with adhesive stickers. Next, I tried the google translation for adhesive tape (cinta adhesiva) while pretending to put tape around the boxes I was holding. It worked. She laughed and brought me exactly what I needed. I gave her $5 in exchange for the roll of tape and the two cardboard boxes, and returned to my rental car to see if this approach might work. It wasn’t pretty, but it looked promising.

The andean condor picture is sandwiched between cardboard and a whole lot of tape.
The Andean condor picture is sandwiched between two pieces of thin cardboard and a whole lot of tape.

To make a long story short, during the journey home, I was able to bring it as a carry-on and it fit in the overhead compartment for 3 of my 4 remaining flights. For the very last flight (a small plane from Houston to Albuquerque), it was too big for the overhead compartment, so I was sweating it a bit. I was in the window seat, so I ended up slipping the picture between the side of the seat and the wall of the plane, put my jacket over it, and hoped nobody would notice. In the end, it worked! I was able to get it home in one piece and it’s a fun memory of the trip.

In Closing

El Calafate is a good place to visit if you’re planning to be in southern Patagonia.  It serves great hub for visiting the glaciers of Parque National del Glaciares (90-minute drive), the mountains (such as Fitz Roy) of El Chalten (2.5 hour drive), and even Torres del Paine National Park in Chile (3.5 – 4.5 hour drive).

In my next post, I’ll share information about the drive to and from El Calafate to Torres del Paine National Park (Chile). After that, I’ll create another post to share my experience hiking to the Torres del Paine Viewpoint via the Las Torres a Chileno Trail, considered to be one of the most famous hikes in the world.  

Enjoying a windy sunset in El Calafate.  Wind is a frequent theme of any visit to the region.
Enjoying a windy sunset in El Calafate. Wind is a frequent theme of any visit to the region.
The end of a nice visit to El Calafate, Argentina
The end of a nice visit to El Calafate, Argentina

Thought for the Week

This week’s thought for the week is in the form of a poem called “You Learn” from Argentine poet, essayist, and short story writer, Jorge Luis Borges (24 August 1899 – 14 June 1986).

After a while you learn the subtle difference
Between holding a hand and chaining a soul,
And you learn that love doesn’t mean leaning
And company doesn’t mean security.

And you begin to learn that kisses aren’t contracts
And presents aren’t promises,
And you begin to accept your defeats
With your head up and your eyes open

With the grace of a woman, not the grief of a child,
And you learn to build all your roads on today
Because tomorrow’s ground is too uncertain for plans
And futures have a way of falling down in mid-flight.

After a while you learn…
That even sunshine burns if you get too much.
So you plant your garden and decorate your own soul,
Instead of waiting for someone to bring you flowers.

And you learn that you really can endure…
That you really are strong
And you really do have worth…
And you learn and learn…

With every good-bye you learn.



Thanks for reading and happy travels!

Mark (The New Mexico Travel Guy)

New Mexico Travel Guy at Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge

Mark Aspelin, The New Mexico Travel Guy (www.newmexicotravelguy.com), is a travel writer and author of two books who has enjoyed a wide variety of adventures in his travels to over 100 countries and all 50 U.S. States.  His current project involves visiting EVERY town in his home state of New Mexico (there’s over 500 towns) and writing a story about each one. He’s on track to finish the project by his early-mid 100s. When not traveling, Mark lives as a recluse in the mountains outside of Albuquerque, New Mexico.