Pie Town, New Mexico: Tasty Traditions since the 1920’s

Believe it or not, there’s a real place called Pie Town nestled in the boonies of New Mexico. It’s perched on Route 60 (aka U.S. Highway 60), about an hour east of Arizona and 80 minutes west of Socorro. Pie Town has been a popular stop for travelers and ranchers since it was established in the 1920s. With its intriguing name, and reputation for great tasting pies, many travelers drive hours out of their way to make a pit stop and sample the pies. In August of this year, one of those travelers was me. Here’s what I learned about this small town of just under 200 people.

A Brief History of Pie Town, New Mexico

Like much of New Mexico, the area where Pie Town is today was once home to Native American tribes, such as the Anasazi and Acoma. Over time, settlers began to arrive. By the late 1800’s, cattle and sheep were being hustled from eastern Arizona and western New Mexico on a trek East that could be as long as 120 miles. Their destination? Magdalena, where a steam train waited to whisk them off to the markets. This cattle and sheep route became known as “The Driveway”.

The journey along “The Driveway” was done on horseback. Cattle and sheep drivers traveled about 20 miles a day before stopping to recharge with some water, food, and sleep. These stopover points along “The Driveway” eventually turned into small towns such as Pie Town and Datil. But I’m jumping the gun a bit.

Let’s start the story in the 1920s. The 1920s was a time of economic prosperity when jazz was king, and everyone seemed to be living it up. A Texan named Clyde Norman, who also happened to be a World War I vet, rolled the dice on a mining claim for gold and silver in what would later become Pie Town. That venture didn’t pan out, but Clyde was undeterred and decided to settle there anyway.

Clyde opened a general store called “Norman’s Place”, catering to travelers with gasoline, kerosene, and groceries. From what I could gather in my research, the unpaved road was also known as the “Coast-to-Coast Highway” by this time. So, whether folks referred to it as “The Driveway” or “Coast-to-Coast Highway,” it was a popular route for wanderers passing through.

As part of his routine to stock his general store, Clyde would pick up coffee and donuts from a bakery in Datil that was run by Helen McLaughlin. One day, Helen suggested Norman try his hand at making donuts. Clyde took the advice but proved to be terrible at it. Not one to be discouraged, Clyde switched tactics and began making dried fruit pies, a craft he’d picked up during his teenage years in Texas. He chose well. Those pies were a hit. Before long, “Norman’s Place” was a favorite among long-haul drivers and cowboys, who fondly dubbed the spot “Pie Town.” The name stuck.

As folks started moving west, lured by the promise of free land through the Homestead Acts, they brought along dreams of cabins and farmland. In Pie Town, they planted corn and pinto beans. One local shop even gained a reputation for making pinto bean pies.

But then came the Great Depression, kicking off in 1929 and dragging on for a decade. The stock market hit rock bottom, businesses collapsed, and unemployment in the U.S. soared to 23%. With crop prices plummeting, farms and rural areas took a hit. Around 200 homesteaders, fleeing the Dust Bowl chaos of the Great Plains, found refuge in Pie Town during the 1920s and 1930s.

If you’re picturing Pie Town as a flat prairie, think again. Pie Town is in the high desert of New Mexico, at a lofty 7,778 feet above sea level.

Despite the harsh realities of The Great Depression, the folks of Pie Town pulled together, supporting one another when times were tough. Instead of giving in to despair, they found comfort in baking sweet pies and offering a warm welcome to travelers passing through.

I wish I could say Pie Town has been on a roll ever since. Unfortunately, it hit a rough patch in the 1950s. A strange weather shift led to unusually dry conditions, wrecking most of the crops. With farming no longer viable, many residents packed up and chased new dreams in places like Albuquerque and California.

It was a sad time indeed – Pie Town without pies! But things turned around in the 1990s. Read on for more about that comeback.

Pie-O-Neer brings the pie back to Pie Town

In 1995, a family from Dallas, Texas visited Pie Town, hoping to enjoy some pie. To their surprise, there was no pie to be found. Among those disappointed people was Kathy Knapp. Instead of forgetting about it, Kathy reached out to her mother, Mary Knapp, proposing they bring pie back to Pie Town. Mary, who was living in California, had a background in pie-making from her mother’s cafe in Illinois, and she was interested in the idea.

After getting turned down for loans by Dallas bankers, they eventually came across a third-generation banker from Socorro, New Mexico. This banker had fond childhood memories of visiting Pie Town for pie, and he agreed to finance them. On November 11, 1995, the Pie-O-Neer restaurant opened its doors.

A year later, Mary had to relocate to a lower altitude due to health concerns, so Kathy decided to step up and take over. Rather than serve meals, Pie-O-Neer focused solely on pie. Over time, Pie-O-Neer gained significant publicity through various articles and even a documentary film called “Pie Lady of Pie Town” that features Kathy Knapp’s story.

Pie-O-Neer serves large, whole pies, pies by the slice, small 6-inch pies, and even cupcake-size pies. You’ll find a wide variety of options, although it depends on the season and what’s in stock. In addition to many of the classics, you may find some unusual offerings such as New Mexico Apple with Green Chile and Pine Nuts, Peach Green Chile, and Chocolate Chess with Red Chile.

While browsing the different options, I came across a key lime pie and, since that’s one of my mom’s favorites, I settled on that. Fortunately, I had a cooler in my car as I still had a three-hour drive ahead of me to get to my mom’s house. It proved to be a hit and, of course, I ate half of it.

Pie-O-Neer is typically open on Friday, Saturday, and Monday from “10am ish – 5pm ish” and Sunday from noon – 6pm. Sometimes they’re open on Thursdays too. To be safe, you’ll likely want to visit the Pie-O-Neer Facebook page or call 1-877-PIE-TOWN (743-8696) to confirm they’ll be open when you plan to arrive. They’ll try to save a slice of your favorite pies for you if call in advance to let them know what you’d like. If you’re not able to travel to Pie Town, they can even ship a pie to you.

Local Ingredients, Big Taste: The Gatherin’ Place II’s Recipe for Success

As you cruise along U.S. Highway 60 through Pie Town, you’re bound to spot The Gatherin’ Place II, a highly rated restaurant and pie shop. It’s very close to Pie-O-Neer. Naturally, you might start wondering, “What happened to The Gatherin’ Place I?” Yep, I was curious too, so I did the only logical thing—I asked them.

I had the pleasure of speaking with Paul Rader, the owner of the Gatherin’ Place II, and he filled me in on the background of his restaurant. A special thanks also goes out to Paul’s mother, Cheryl, who provided additional details of how the Gatherin’ Place II was established.

Cheryl used to work with Janine McMurtrey, the owner of The Gatherin’ Place (I) in 2016. Cheryl learned the ropes of making fabulous pies during the three years she worked with Janine. In 2020, Janine moved to Arizona with her husband and they leased out the cafe to several individuals between 2020 – 2023. The last of those restaurants was a Hawaiian restaurant called the Ohana Cafe. When the Ohana Cafe closed, Janine asked Cheryl if she and Paul would be interested in buying the property and cafe. Given Cheryl’s experience making pies with Janine, and Paul’s previous restaurant experience, they said yes.

Paul packed his bags and moved from Sand Point, Idaho (where he’d been living the previous four years) to combine forces with his mom to launch the new restaurant. As a token of gratitude to Janine McMurtrey for the opportunity to purchase the property and cafe, Paul and Cheryl named the restaurant Gatherin’ Place II, in a nod to Janine’s original restaurant. November 5th, 2024 marks the one-year anniversary of opening Gatherin’ Place II.

The Gatherin’ Place II serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Paul takes pride in ensuring that everything is homemade. Nothing comes out of a bag. They cut their own fries, dip their own onion rings, purchase locally raised beef, smoke their own meat, and make all their sauces in-house. Similarly, their handmade pies are made from scratch, with no pre-made pie filling. Here’s the current version of their menu.

Paul comes from a military and police family, so you’ll see flags on top of the restaurant in a nod to those who serve in the military, police, and as first responders.

In the future, Paul is planning to move the bakery to a separate building to create space for a small grocery store and a lounge area for visitors to relax. This would make it the only place in Pie Town offering provisions for residents of Pie Town proper, as well as for hikers, bikers and other travelers.

The Gatherin’ Place II is open Tuesday – Saturday from 9am – 5pm and Sunday from 9am – 2pm. They are closed on Mondays. As for pie, they offer a variety of 6-inch pies that are ready to eat or take out. You can call to request a 10 inch pie. Slices are also an option. If there’s a flavor that you really want to have waiting for you when you arrive, then it’s best to give them a call at 575-772-2909 and they’ll do their best to have one ready for you.

Pie Town: A Welcome pit stop for thru-hikers of the Continental Divide Trail

The 3,100 mile Continental Divide trail passes through Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado and New Mexico. New Mexico is home to 820 miles of that trail. Section 18 of the Continental Divide Trail is the one that passes through Pie Town. This particular section of the trail is known to be one of the more boring segments, as it includes a long stretch on a relatively flat, hard gravel road.

As you might imagine, the thought of eating a freshly baked pie might sound like a dream while hiking 3,100 miles on the rugged Continental Divide trail. Well, in Pie Town, that dream can become a reality. Having said that, access to clean water and a post office are also top priorities in Pie Town. Decent water sources are hard to come by during the section of the trail that takes you to Pie Town, and the Pie Town Post Office serves as an important resupply spot for hikers to pick up packages. If you want to see some hikers, just visit the post office at 8am on a Monday morning in the summer or fall.

Pie Town is also home to the “Toaster House”, a private house that was converted to a free hostel for hikers and backpackers. There are actual toasters hanging up along the entry to the place, so it’s hard to miss. They also have a shoe wall of old running shoes that have been retired after many miles on the trail. The Toaster House was the home of Nita Larronde. After raising five children there, she left the house open to hikers and mountain bikers who are passing through. There’s a sign indicating that “No one lives here any more – please make yourselves at home.” There’s a box for donations to help maintain electricity, as well some expectations to take care of the place during your stay. The water is shut off in the winter to avoid bursting the pipes.

As you might guess, hikers, bikers, hunters, and climbers consider Pie Town to be a great place. Speaking of climbing, the Enchanted Tower in nearby Datil, New Mexico is considered to be one of the best sport climbing spots in New Mexico. More on that when I write a post about Datil.

There are no hotels or AirBnbs (at the time of this writing) in Pie Town, so if you’re looking for accommodations outside of the Toaster House, your best bet is to check the towns of Datil (21 miles East), Magdalena (57 miles East), and Quemado (22 miles West).

The Annual Pie Festival of Pie Town

You probably won’t be surprised to learn that Pie Town hosts an annual Pie Festival. The event takes place each year on the second Saturday in September. I haven’t been to the festival yet, but perhaps I’ll be there on Saturday, September 13th, 2025 to give it a shot. After all, I’ve never entered a horned toad race, although the “bring your own toad” requirement may prove to be an obstacle. After losing the race, I could indulge in a few slices of tasty pie. That sounds like a win to me.

Here’s the schedule of events from the 42nd Annual Pie Festival that was recently held on September 14, 2024.

If you can’t make it to the festival, then you can always go to Pie Town on March 14th to celebrate Pi Day (3.14), assuming that it falls on a day when the restaurants are open.

Conclusion

In essence, Pie Town is a slice of Americana, showcasing the grit that has fueled the heartland for generations. It’s also proof that even the tiniest dots on the map have stories worth telling — stories that make you smile, make you think, and, of course, make you crave a slice of pie.

To close this article, I’ll answer a question that I’ll no doubt get from readers. “Should I get pie from Pie-O-Neer or The Gatherin’ Place II?”

My answer is Option C – both.

Both places serve excellent pies. My recommendation is to go to The Gatherin’ Place II for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, and get one of their pies AND go to Pie-O-Neer and get another pie there. That way you can do your own taste test. If you’re feeling full, you can take one home with you, assuming you can resist the temptation of eating it during your drive. It won’t be easy.

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Thought for the Week

For this week’s thought for the week, I was torn between two very different quotes about pie. So, in the spirit of Option C (both), here are two thoughts for your enjoyment.

The first quote is from the American astronomer and author, Carl Sagan. Carl was a prolific writer of over 600 scientific papers and articles and he helped write over 20 books. He was well known for his television series, Cosmos. He also wrote a book called Contact that was turned into the 1997 film Contact that featured Jodie Foster and Matthew McConaughey. I mention that factoid because Pie Town is only 45 minutes away from the Very Large Array, which is featured in the movie Contact. I’ll be writing a separate blog post about the Very Large Array in the coming weeks so I won’t go into any details about that now.

The second quote is from David Mahmet, an author, playwright, and filmmaker who was originally from Chicago, Illinois before moving to the warmer climes of Santa Monica, California.

“If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe.”
― Carl Sagan

“We must have a pie. Stress cannot exist in the presence of a pie.”
― David Mamet

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Thanks for reading, and happy travels!

Mark (New Mexico Travel Guy)

Mark Aspelin, The New Mexico Travel Guy (www.newmexicotravelguy.com), is a travel writer and author of two books who has enjoyed a wide variety of adventures in his travels to over 100 countries and all 50 U.S. States.  His current project involves visiting EVERY town in his home state of New Mexico (there’s over 500 towns) and writing a story about each one.  When not traveling, Mark lives as a recluse in the mountains outside of Albuquerque, New Mexico.