Wrap up your Baltic road trip with a journey through Poland. Explore The Wolf’s Lair, Wrocław, Toruń, Auschwitz, Ojców National Park, and Kraków
For the final piece in our five-part series on our road trip through the Baltics, we’re taking a quick spin through Poland. Now, before anyone gets technical, yes, I know – Poland isn’t officially part of “The Baltics.” Sure, it shares a coastline with the Baltic Sea, but it doesn’t make the official club. I covered all that way back in the first post when I set the stage for this series. So why include Poland? Simple: that’s where we wrapped up the trip! Plus, Poland is a great country to visit.
Our route from Vilnius, Lithuania to Kraków was anything but direct. We made stops at the Wolf’s Lair, strolled through Toruń, wandered the streets of Wrocław, and visited Auschwitz before catching a flight home from Kraków. It was a detour-heavy journey, but worth it. Let’s get into it.
Poland’s flag with Warsaw in the background (velishchuk, Adobe Stock Photo)
Here’s a recap of the road trip we took from Tallinn, Estonia to Kraków, Poland. Our stops in Poland included the Wolf’s Lair, Toruń, Wrocław, and Auschwitz, before wrapping up the trip in Kraków.
Table of Contents
The Haunting Legacy of the Wolf’s Lair
Our first stop in Poland was the Wolf’s Lair, Adolf Hitler’s infamous World War II bunker complex hidden deep in the Masurian woods. It’s tucked near the village of Gierłoż in northeastern Poland. The closest town, Kętrzyn, is about 5 miles (8 kilometers) away. Known as Wolfsschanze in German, the complex consisted of ~200 buildings, bunkers and other structures, and it was home to ~2,000 people at its peak in 1944.
This site got its name from Hitler’s chosen nickname, “Wolf.” Back in the 1920s and during the early days of the Nazi regime, Hitler often used this alias. In fact, he even referred to himself as “Herr Wolf” during that time, and the name “Wolf” ended up being linked to several of his military headquarters.
Stepping into the Wolf’s Lair feels a bit like walking into a historical thriller. The crumbling ruins, surrounded by dense, shadowy trees, create a strange mix of fascination and unease. As you wander through broken bunkers and paths that the forest has reclaimed, it’s easy to imagine the high-stakes decisions and tense conversations that once echoed here. Back in its prime, the compound spanned several square kilometers, secured by minefields and armed guards. Now, it’s nature’s turn to dominate, with moss creeping over walls and towering trees framing the remains.
What really grabs your attention is the sheer scope of destruction. When German forces retreated in 1945, they partially demolished the site to prevent it from falling into enemy hands. The aftermath? Enormous hunks of reinforced concrete are scattered about like abandoned puzzle pieces, a sharp contrast to the effort that must have gone into building such a fortress. These ruins stand as silent reminders of both the ambition and collapse of the Nazi regime.
Today, the Wolf’s Lair is more than a relic of history. The sheer weight of the decisions that were made here and the countless lives they impacted offer a stark reminder of what real dictatorship and war can lead to. It’s not a lighthearted outing, but it’s a meaningful one that challenges us to confront the past and learn from it.
Welcome to the Wolf’s Lair, tucked away near Kętrzyn, Poland. This site, known as Wolfsschanze in German, got its name from Hitler’s chosen nickname, “Wolf.” As you stroll along the trail winding through the Wolf’s Lair, you’ll come across many destroyed bunkers scattered around the area. There are interpretive signs at each bunker, indicating what used to be there.Not much left of this one. You can see of photo of Hitler and other members of his entourage walking through that same door.There’s a fascinating collection of photographs from the era showing Hitler alongside key figures like Martin Bormann, who served as his private secretary, and Hermann Göring, the man in charge of the Luftwaffe.An example of the massively reinforced structures at Wolf’s Lair.You’ll have the opportunity to step inside a few of the buildings to get a closer look. This is what’s left of the communications bunker at Wolf’s Lair in Poland. This fortified structure played a key role in Hitler’s Eastern Front headquarters. It was designed to ensure fast and secure communication between the front lines, the Nazi high command, and other critical operational hubs.This display re-creates the infamous assassination attempt against Hitler on July 20, 1944. It includes a detailed setup of the briefing room where Claus von Stauffenberg placed the bomb, complete with historical maps, wartime communication gadgets, and wax figures of Hitler and other officers. It captures the tension of a moment that, if successful, might have altered the course of World War II. As you might guess, things ended badly for Claus. The same night of the assassination attempt, Claus and his fellow conspirators were arrested, swiftly court-martialed, and executed by firing squad in the courtyard of the Bendlerblock, the German Army’s Berlin headquarters.A photo of Hitler walking along the path at the Wolf’s Lair.The walkway at Wolf’s Lair was built with stealth in mind. Covered by netting to avoid being spotted from above, it kept movements between key areas hidden from prying eyes from above. This path linked critical locations like Hitler’s bunker, the communications hub, and the briefing rooms, offering a safe route for officers and couriers to move about without risking exposure.Hitler’s bunker at Wolf’s Lair was built like a fortress, with concrete walls so thick (about 26 feet / 8 meters) that it could shrug off bombs and shells like they were just minor inconveniences. This bunker wasn’t just a hideout; it included Hitler’s private rooms, a conference area, and spaces for communications, making it a nerve center of operations. When the German forces started retreating in 1945, they partially demolished the structure to keep it out of Soviet hands, leaving behind a mix of ruins and history.An example of one of the interpretive signs on display. This is the one that marks the location of Hitler’s bunker.Another view of Hitler’s bunker at Wolf’s Lair. On November 20, 1944, with the Red Army pressing forward on the Eastern Front, Hitler decided it was time to pack up and move operations to the Reich Chancellery in Berlin. Hitler spent about 800 days at Wolf’s Lair.
Medieval Marvels in Toruń
After spending several hours at Wolf’s Lair, we were back on the road. Our next stop was Toruń, a medieval city of around 200,000 people, and the birthplace of astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus. Here’s a quick tour of Toruń, which turned out to be my favorite town that we visited in Poland.
Toruń: A Medieval Gem with a UNESCO Heritage
Similar to other stops on this road trip, Toruń is included on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, thanks to its incredibly well-preserved Gothic architecture. The Old Town boasts red-brick churches, a towering Town Hall, and medieval defensive walls that still stand as reminders of the city’s long and storied past.
Welcome to Medieval Town Toruń.Walking the streets of Old Town Toruń.An unexpected encounter on the streets of Old Turn Toruń.The Leaning Tower of Toruń, known locally as Krzywa Wieża, is one of the most iconic medieval landmarks in the city. Built in the 13th century as part of the defensive walls, the tower now leans about 5 feet (1.5 meters) due to unstable ground beneath it. The tower’s unusual tilt draws plenty of visitors. Local legend says that a Teutonic Knight broke his vows by falling in love with a local woman. As punishment for his betrayal, he was ordered to construct a crooked tower to reflect his “crooked” actions. Today, it’s a popular spot where tourists test their balance by standing with their back and heels against the slanted wall, arms outstretched. If they remain steady, they’re considered “innocent.” If they wobble, well, the tower has its judgment.Here’s another view of The Leaning Tower of Toruń, known locally as Krzywa Wieża.The Vistula River, also known as the Wisła, is Poland’s longest river, winding its way through Toruń and several other major cities. One standout feature in Toruń is the Józef Piłsudski Bridge. Originally constructed in 1934, this steel truss bridge was rebuilt after World War II and remains a vital link across the Vistula. It connects the historic Old Town to the rest of the city. The riverbanks nearby are a favorite hangout for both locals and visitors for walking, biking, or just soaking in the views of Toruń’s skyline.The sculpture shown in the image is the Anchor Monument, located by the Vistula River in Toruń, Poland. It stands as a tribute to the city’s rich maritime and trade history, emphasizing Toruń’s long-standing relationship with the river as an important route for transportation and commerce. The anchor symbolizes navigation, strength, and the city’s legacy as a significant port and member of the Hanseatic League. Rest assured, I didn’t know what that was either. The Hanseatic League was a powerful medieval trade and defense alliance of Northern European cities (13th–17th century), fostering economic dominance along the Baltic and North Seas, with cities like Toruń thriving as key trading hubs.Teatr Baj Pomorski is a renowned puppet theater in Toruń, Poland, famous for its facade that’s designed to resemble a giant wooden wardrobe. It offers a diverse repertoire of performances for children and adults, blending traditional puppetry with modern theatrical techniques.Sitting at an outdoor café, I enjoyed a warm cup of herbal tea (with the actual ingredients, rather than a tea bag) while watching the world pass by.
Nicolaus Copernicus: The Man Who Rewrote the Cosmos
It’s tough to visit Toruń without bumping into Copernicus, or at least his legacy, every few blocks. Back in the 16th century, Nicolaus Copernicus flipped the script on astronomy. He put forward a bold idea that the Sun, not the Earth, sits at the center of it all. This concept, known as the heliocentric theory, was a total shake-up of how people thought about the universe. He explained it all in his book De revolutionibus orbium coelestium, which hit the scene in 1543.
In other words, Copernicus basically told everyone they’d been looking at the solar system backward. This heliocentric idea rattled centuries of old beliefs, both religious and philosophical. It also set the stage for what we now think of as modern science. Copernicus didn’t just stop at influencing astronomy. His work lit a fire for big thinkers like Galileo and Newton, who would go on to build some of the most important ideas in science.
Toruń proudly honors its most famous son with several monuments, including his childhood home, which now houses a museum dedicated to his life and work. Standing before the statue of Copernicus in the main square, you can’t help but think about how this small but remarkable city helped shape the guy who literally changed how we see the universe.
If you glance to the right side of the photo, just behind the Nicolaus Copernicus statue, you’ll notice Toruń’s Old Town Hall. Dating back to the 13th century, this Gothic building served as the city’s hub for business and politics, it’s now home to the District Museum, where you’ll find medieval artifacts and local history. You also have the option to climb to the top of the clock tower for some great views of the city.A closer look at the bronze statue of Nicolaus Copernicus in front of the Old Town Hall. It’s been there since 1853, honoring the hometown guy who flipped our understanding of the solar system upside down. The inscription calls him the “Mover of the Earth, Stopper of the Sun and Sky.” No big deal, right? Just a little reminder that one bold idea can change how we see everything.
Pierniki: Toruń’s Sweet and Spicy Tradition
Toruń is also famous for its gingerbread, or pierniki as the locals call it. These spiced treats have been a hallmark of the city for centuries, with traditional recipes passed down through generations. You can visit a gingerbread museum (Muzeum Piernika) to learn about the history of pierniki and you might even get a chance to try to make some pierniki yourself.
Pan Precel is a popular spot in Toruń, thanks to its impressive selection of pretzels. Whether you’re into the classic kind or prefer them stuffed, they’ve got you covered with both savory and sweet options. For my introduction to the city’s famous gingerbread, I went with a pierniki (gingerbread) pretzel.A peek at the inside of the pierniki (gingerbread) pretzel.We stopped off at one of Old Town Torun’s pierniki Igingerbread) bakeries. Many of these bakeries still use traditional recipes dating back to medieval times, making it a must-visit for gingerbread lovers and history buffs alike.A look inside the gingerbread bakery.Enjoying some gingerbread tea along with some gingerbread snacks.Another look at the streets of Old Town Toruń as the sun goes down for the day.
Wrocław: Visiting the “Venice of Poland”
For our next stop, we drove about 4 hours from Toruńto the city of Wrocław, often referred to as the “Venice of Poland” due to its network of rivers and over 100 bridges. Virtually nobody outside of Poland pronounces Wrocław correctly on their first attempt. I certainly butchered it. Go ahead, give it a shot.
Wrong … well, most likely.
Wrocław is pronounced phonetically as “VROTS-wav” in English. Here’s the breakdown.
The “Wr” sounds like “Vr” The “o” is short, like in “lot” The “cł” is pronounced like “tsw” The final “aw” sounds like “av” So, it sounds like “VROTS-wav” (with a soft “ts” sound in the middle).
Easy, right? Well, at least it should be a bit easier now!
A City Shaped by Centuries of Change
Wrocław is a city that wears its history proudly, with influences from different empires shaping its cultural landscape. Over the centuries, it has been part of Bohemia, Austria, Prussia, and Germany before returning to Poland after World War II. This rich tapestry of influences is reflected in the city’s architecture, cuisine, and cultural events. The city’s ability to rebuild and thrive despite these upheavals is evident in areas like Ostrów Tumski, the oldest part of Wrocław.
The Church of St. Vincent (Kościół św. Wincentego i św. Jakuba) in Wrocław, Poland, is a historic landmark with roots dating back to the 13th century. Over the centuries, it has served both Catholic and Protestant communities, reflecting its diverse history.A glimpse of the interwoven rivers and moats of “The Venice of Poland”.
Market Square: The Beating Heart of Wrocław
The heart of Wrocław is its vibrant Market Square, one of the largest in Europe, lined with colorful buildings and bustling with activity. Here, the historic Town Hall stands as a masterpiece of Gothic and Renaissance architecture and is a testament to the city’s long-standing importance as a trading hub. Visitors and locals alike gather around the lively cafes and street performers, soaking in the atmosphere.
Wrocław Town Hall (Ratusz we Wrocławiu) is an impressive Gothic-Renaissance building situated in the heart of Wrocław’s Market Square (Rynek). This historic landmark stands out with its detailed brickwork, ornate façade, unique astronomical clock, and sharply sloped roof. It’s one of the city’s most recognizable and admired sights. In case you’re wondering, an astronomical clock is a historic timepiece that not only tells the time but also tracks astronomical details like the phases of the moon, zodiac signs, and planetary movements.Wrocław’s Market Square (Rynek) buzzes with energy, thanks to its mix of street performers. musicians, fire jugglers, and living statues that bring the area to life. Some even dress as the city’s well-loved gnomes (krasnale). The sounds of violins, accordions, and jazz add to the ambiance, making the square a fun place to explore. The colorful historic townhouses in Wrocław’s Market Square (Rynek) showcase a mix of Gothic, Baroque, and Renaissance architecture, carefully restored after World War II. Once home to wealthy merchants, these vibrant buildings now house cafes, restaurants, and shops.In the center of this photo, you’ll see St. Elizabeth’s Church (Bazylika św. Elżbiety Węgierskiej), one of Wrocław’s most striking Gothic landmarks. Located just a stone’s throw from Market Square (Rynek), this historic church is easy to spot thanks to its towering brick structure and the green spire that crowns it. Fun fact: that tower once doubled as a fire lookout. Dating back to the 14th century, this church has been through a lot – wars, repairs, and all the ups and downs that come with centuries of history. These days, it offers visitors a chance to climb its tower for terrific views of Wrocław. Here’s a closer look at the colorful townhouses you’ll find in Wrocław’s Market Square (Rynek).Here’s another look at St. Elizabeth’s Church (Bazylika św. Elżbiety Węgierskiej), along with colorful historic townhouses.Here’s a different view of St. Elizabeth’s Church and some of the surrounding buildings.
The Gnomes of Wrocław: A Whimsical Treasure Hunt
Perhaps the most unique aspect of Wrocław is its tradition of krasnale, or gnomes. Originally a symbol of anti-communist resistance, these playful figures have become a fun treasure hunt for visitors. Scattered throughout the city, each gnome tells a story or represents a unique aspect of local culture. There are maps and apps dedicated to gnome-hunting, providing a fun way to explore hidden corners and major landmarks, and engage with the city’s history.
Here’s a little sculpture called “Firefighter Gnomes” (Strażacy Krasnale), created as a heartfelt nod to firefighters. The scene features two gnomes decked out in firefighter helmets, gripping a hose, ready to take on imaginary flames. It’s a reminder of the courage and commitment that real-life firefighters bring to the job every day. These gnomes are part of Wrocław’s famous krasnale collection – tiny dwarf statues sprinkled all over the city. Locals and visitors alike enjoy hunting them down like a city-wide scavenger hunt. Each gnome tells its own story, often highlighting a piece of Wrocław’s history, culture, or the everyday heroes that keep the city running.
A Sobering Visit to Auschwitz
Our next destination in Poland was our most sobering stop: Auschwitz-Birkenau. The barracks and other structures remain hauntingly intact, offering stark evidence of the conditions victims faced. You can enter several of these buildings, where you’ll find exhibits that showcase personal artifacts such as shoes, suitcases, and photographs. These objects, once belonging to men, women, and children, serve as poignant reminders of individual lives lost in the Holocaust.
Around 1.1 million people were killed at Auschwitz, the largest Nazi concentration and extermination camp during World War II. The victims included:
About 1 million Jewish men, women, and children
Between 70,000 and 75,000 Polish political prisoners
Approximately 21,000 Roma (often referred to as Gypsies)
Around 15,000 Soviet prisoners of war
An estimated 10,000 to 15,000 others, including resistance members and people from various nationalities
You have the option of joining a guided tour or visiting independently. To ensure availability, you should book your visit to the Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial and Museum as early as possible. Reservations can be made up to 90 days in advance for both individual visitors and organized groups. If online reservations are unavailable for your desired date, a limited number of entry passes may be obtainable on-site at the ticket offices, but availability is not guaranteed.
As you can imagine, visiting Auschwitz leaves an indelible mark, underscoring the importance of remembrance and education.
This image shows the main entrance gate to Auschwitz I, featuring the infamous inscription “Arbeit Macht Frei” (“Work Sets You Free”). This deceptive slogan was used by the Nazis to give prisoners false hope, masking the horrific reality of the concentration camp. The gate, now a powerful symbol of the Holocaust, leads into the preserved site that millions of people visit to remember the victims and reflect on history.A glimpse of part of Auschwitz I, the heart of the Auschwitz camp system in Poland. Originally built as Polish military barracks, it was later repurposed into a Nazi concentration camp. The brick buildings here served various functions such as housing prisoners, running administrative operations, and conducting grim medical experiments. Today, many of these buildings have been transformed into museum exhibits, forming part of the Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial and Museum.Another view of Auschwitz I, featuring a guard tower, prisoner barracks, and barbed-wire fencing. The guard tower was used for surveillance to prevent escapes, while the buildings housed prisoners and administrative offices. The warning sign with a skull and crossbones indicates the presence of an electrified fence, which was a deadly barrier around the camp.Another view of the electric fence separating the prisoner barracks from administrative offices at Auschwitz.The interior of a prisoner barracks at Auschwitz I, showing a reconstruction of the harsh living conditions. The floor is covered with straw-filled mattresses, where prisoners were forced to sleep crowded together. A sign explains that in the morning, inmates had to gather and stack the mattresses in a corner.This variation of prisoner barracks at Auschwitz I, shows tightly packed wooden bunk beds where inmates were forced to sleep in harsh conditions. The triple-tiered bunks, with thin straw mattresses, were overcrowded, often holding multiple prisoners per level.A glimpse at the poor sanitation conditions at the prisoners’ latrine at Auschwitz I. Due to severe overcrowding, these facilities were inadequate for all prisoners and, before their installation, inmates had to rely on provisional field latrines.The execution courtyard at Auschwitz I, where prisoners were executed against the “Death Wall” between Blocks 10 and 11. The black-shuttered windows on the left were covered to prevent other inmates from witnessing the killings, while the concrete posts on the right were used for brutal punishments such as hanging prisoners by their wrists (pole hanging), severe beatings, forced standing for hours in freezing conditions, and public humiliation, often leading to extreme pain, injury, or death.The entrance to the gas chamber and crematorium at Auschwitz I, a somber site of mass executions during the Holocaust. The pathway leads underground to a dimly lit doorway, blending into the grassy mound that conceals the structure. This unassuming yet chilling entrance marks the final moments for thousands of victims and now stands as a place of remembrance and historical reflection.Walking through the gas chamber at Auschwitz I. The dimly lit, concrete-walled chamber has a low ceiling and a worn, rough interior, reflecting its tragic past. This space was used by the Nazis for mass executions using Zyklon B, and today it stands as a stark reminder of the atrocities committed during the Holocaust.The crematorium ovens inside Auschwitz I, located next to the gas chamber where victims were executed. The brick structure and open iron doors reveal the grim function of these furnaces, which were used by the Nazis to dispose of bodies after mass killings.Here’s a view of the gas chamber and crematorium at Auschwitz I from the opposite side, featuring the low, bunker-like structure with a brick chimney used for incineration. The sloped, grass-covered roof was designed to blend into the surroundings.Another view of Auschwitz I, showing a long brick building with a wooden ventilation tower, which was likely used as a storage or administrative facility. In the background, a guard tower and barbed-wire fences are visible, emphasizing the camp’s strict security and confinement measures.
Our road trip comes to an end in Kraków
After a somber visit to Auschwitz, we hopped in the car and made the 75-minute drive to Kraków, Poland’s second-largest city (population ~800,000 people). Kraków is also one of the country’s most popular tourist spots, drawing in more than 9 million visitors every year. Long story short, don’t expect to have the place all to yourself.
Escape the crowds at Ojców National Park (Ojcowski Park Narodowy)
To begin our exploration of the area, we took a short drive about 15 miles (25 km) outside Kraków. Our destination? Ojców National Park, Poland’s smallest national park. By the way, if you’re sweating over the pronunciation, it’s “OY-tsoof”. Yes, I got that one wrong too.
Like seemingly every place we’ve visited on this trip, Ojców has some serious history behind it. Back in the 14th century, King Casimir III the Great had a castle built here as part of a defense system to ward off invaders. Fast forward to today, and the park is less about protecting kingdoms and more about giving visitors a chance to enjoy some peace and quiet. It’s packed with natural beauty in the form of limestone cliffs, shadowy caves, and dense forests.
If you’re up for a hike, there are plenty of trails to choose from. They range from a manageable 1.5 miles (2.5 km) to a more challenging 10.5 miles (17 km). Whether you’re looking for a quick stroll or an all-day trek, there’s something for everyone. It’s the perfect spot to stretch your legs and recharge before hitting the road again.
Are you into viewing wildlife? If so, you’re in luck! Ojców National Park is a sanctuary for wildlife, home to seventeen bat species, along with roe deer, wild boars, badgers, and foxes that roam its forests and caves. Bird enthusiasts can enjoy spotting Eurasian eagle-owls, buzzards, kingfishers, and woodpeckers. The park’s rivers and wetlands provide space for grass snakes, fire salamanders, and various toads. You’ll also find over 100 species of butterflies, including the rare Apollo butterfly as well as common old-growth forest insects such as stag beetles and dor beetles. We only saw a few species during our short visit – a dor beetle, Eurasian jay, Eurasian nuthatch, and Eurasian wren.
Welcome to Ojców National Park, Poland’s smallest national park. It’s pronounced “OY-tsoof”.Some of the attractions you’ll find at Ojców National Park.Walking the trails of Ojców National Park.You can also walk along a paved road for several miles into Ojców National Park.A “dor beetle” from the genus Anoplotrupes. These little guys are often found roaming European forests, where they earn their keep by breaking down animal dung and other organic stuff. Basically, they’re part of nature’s cleanup crew. The term “dor beetle” traces back to the Old English word dora, which means “borer” or “driller.” This probably refers to their habit of digging into the ground to lay eggs. And if you’re curious about the whole dung situation, here’s the deal: they bury it in tunnels underground. Why? Because that’s what their babies, or larvae, munch on for dinner. Not exactly a glamorous start to life, but hey, someone’s got to do it.A glimpse of a limestone rock cliff amidst the fall colors of Ojców National Park.
The Grand Finale in Kraków Old Town
To wrap up our trip, it was time to brave the tourists and visit the historic center of Kraków known as Kraków Old Town (Stare Miasto in Polish). It’s the most famous and well-preserved medieval district in Poland, known for its cobblestone streets, historic buildings, and lively atmosphere.
The last time I was in Kraków was in 1993, when the city had a much different vibe. One memory that’s stuck with me is being surrounded by about ten young Roma kids. Some of them were reaching for my water bottle that I was holding up high, while the rest of the kids were busy trying to lighten my pockets. Luckily, I quickly figured out what was really going on. So, I handed over the water bottle and they moved on, empty-handed except for some hydration. Fast forward to this trip, and the only crowd closing in on me was a sea of tourists. It was the first time on this journey where I felt that “get me out of here” itch that creeps up in ultra-touristy spots. That said, Kraków is a beautiful city, so it’s worth braving the crowds.
The Old Town is home to Rynek Główny (Main Market Square), as well as St. Mary’s Basilica, the Cloth Hall, Wawel Castle, and the historic city walls. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978 and remains a cultural and tourist hub, with its horse-drawn carriages, street performers, and bustling cafés.
The Main Market Square (Rynek Główny) steals the show as one of Europe’s largest medieval squares. Towering above it all is St. Mary’s Basilica, famous for its striking twin spires and the hourly trumpet call that echoes across the square. Just steps away, the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) is packed with stalls offering local crafts, souvenirs, and a glimpse of the city’s rich artisanal traditions.
Wandering through Kraków’s narrow, cobblestone streets you’ll see a mix of Gothic, Baroque, and other architectural style buildings, sharing space with cozy cafes, street performers, and historic landmarks.
No trip to Kraków is complete without heading up Wawel Hill to check out the impressive Wawel Castle and Cathedral. From the top, you’re treated to sweeping views of the Vistula River and the city stretching out below.
Wawel Castle, one of Kraków’s most famous landmarks, sits proudly on Wawel Hill, overlooking the Vistula River. Once a royal residence, the castle stands as a testament to Poland’s rich history and culture, showcasing a blend of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architectural styles. Below, the peaceful Vistula River Boulevards offer a favorite spot for walking and cycling, with great views of the castle, the historic city, and modern touches like a distant Ferris wheel.Wawel Cathedral (Katedra Wawelska), one of Poland’s most significant religious and historical landmarks, located on Wawel Hill in Kraków. The cathedral has been the coronation site and burial place of Polish kings, as well as national heroes, bishops, and poets. Its distinctive golden dome belongs to the Sigismund Chapel, often considered a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture in Poland.This statue on Wawel Hill depicts Pope John Paul II, who was born in Poland and served as Archbishop of Kraków before becoming pope in 1978. The statue honors his deep connection to Kraków, his influence on Poland’s spiritual and political history, and his role in inspiring resistance against communism. Similar statues of John Paul II can be found throughout Poland, reflecting his lasting impact on the country and the Catholic Church.This building is the Church of Saints Peter and Paul (Kościół Świętych Apostołów Piotra i Pawła). It’s a Baroque-style church built in the early 17th century by the Jesuits, known for its grand façade and a row of statues of the 12 apostles in front. Located on Grodzka Street, it is one of Kraków’s most famous churches and features an elaborate interior, as well as a Foucault’s pendulum, used to demonstrate Earth’s rotation.An initial view of Kraków’s Main Market Square (Rynek Główny), the heart of the city’s historic Old Town. The tall tower in the center is the Town Hall Tower (Wieża Ratuszowa), the only remaining part of Kraków’s old town hall, which was demolished in the 19th century. To the right, the ornate building with arched arcades is the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice), a historic marketplace that has been a hub for trade since medieval times.A closer look at Cloth Hall (Sukiennice), a historic market hall located in Kraków’s Main Market Square (Rynek Główny). Originally built in the 14th century as a center for international trade, it has served as a marketplace for centuries. Today, the Cloth Hall houses stalls selling traditional Polish handicrafts, souvenirs, and jewelry on the ground floor, while the upper floor features the Sukiennice Museum, a branch of the National Museum showcasing 19th-century Polish art.The statue on the left is the Adam Mickiewicz Monument (Pomnik Adama Mickiewicza), dedicated to Poland’s most famous Romantic poet, Adam Mickiewicz. Unveiled in 1898, the monument stands in Kraków’s Main Market Square (Rynek Główny) and is a popular meeting spot for both locals and tourists. The building on the right is St. Mary’s Basilica (Kościół Mariacki), one of Kraków’s most famous landmarks, known for its twin towers of different heights and stunning Gothic architecture. Inside, it houses the world-renowned Veit Stoss altarpiece, and every hour, a bugler plays the Hejnał Mariacki, a historic trumpet call from the taller tower.A closer look at the Adam Mickiewicz Monument (Pomnik Adama Mickiewicza) in Kraków’s Main Market Square (Rynek Główny).The horse-drawn carriages in Kraków’s Main Market Square (Rynek Główny) are a long-standing tradition dating back to the 19th century, originally used for transporting nobility and wealthy merchants. Today, they serve as a popular tourist attraction, offering scenic rides through the Old Town, past landmarks like St. Mary’s Basilica, Wawel Castle, and the Planty Park. The carriages, often ornately decorated with white paint, polished brass, and elegant harnesses, are operated by licensed coachmen, many of whom wear traditional attire to maintain the historic ambiance.
Reflections on the Road Trip from Tallinn to Kraków
During our visit to Kraków’s Old Town, it started to rain. So, we grabbed a spot in a cafe to enjoy one last meal together and raise a glass to celebrate the end of our memorable adventure through the Baltics and Poland. It’s been a terrific 1,360-mile (2,188 km) road trip from Tallinn to Kraków, and I could easily see myself returning again someday to visit some of the many places we missed during our journey. But, for now, it’s time to head back home to the great state of New Mexico.
Another horse-drawn carriage passes us by as we walk in the rain to get back to our car for the end of our trip.
Thought for the Week
Similar to my previous posts in this series, this week I’ll share three Polish quotes that provide us with some food for thought as well as some insight into the Polish culture.
The first quote comes from Adam Mickiewicz, the Romantic Poet featured in one of the monument photos above. Adam Mickiewicz is considered a national hero of Poland because his poetry and activism inspired Polish patriotism and resistance during a time when Poland was partitioned and did not exist as an independent state. His works, especially Pan Tadeusz, kept Polish culture, language, and national identity alive despite Russian, Prussian, and Austrian rule. Mickiewicz’s writings were not just literature – they were a call to action, fueling the Polish people’s hope for freedom, and making him a symbol of national resilience.
Mickiewicz’s quote gets right to the heart of what he believed. He wasn’t talking about faith that hinges on evidence or logic. Mickiewicz saw faith as something deeper – an inner knowing that doesn’t need to be backed up by facts or figures. It’s the kind of belief that springs from your soul, not a science lab. This idea fits nicely within the Romantic ideals of his time, where feelings and intuition were often viewed as just as important, if not more so, than cold, hard reason when it came to understanding life and the world around us.
The second two quotes are from Pope John Paul II (1920 – 2005). Born Karol Wojtyła in Wadowice, Poland, Pope John Paul II was the first Polish pope and a deeply influential figure in the country’s modern history. He played a crucial role in inspiring the Polish people during communist rule, encouraging them to resist oppression and fight for freedom, which ultimately contributed to the fall of communism in Eastern Europe. Revered as both a spiritual leader and a national hero, he was loved by millions for his message of faith, peace, and human dignity, making him one of the most respected and beloved figures in Polish history.
The first quote from Pope John Paul II is about the perils of having a closed heart. We can have all the freedom in the world but we can end up getting stuck inside our own emotional brick wall – a prison that we’ve created. When we shut ourselves off, whether because of fear, past hurt, or just plain stubbornness, it’s like putting up signs that say “No Entry” to love, connection, and growth. And that’s the kind of isolation no one needs. Keeping our heart open doesn’t mean life’s a breeze or that nothing will hurt us. It just means we’re giving ourself the chance to feel, to grow, and to connect with others. Real freedom isn’t about avoiding pain. It’s about staying open, even when it’s hard. Because when we block out the bad stuff, we can miss out on the good, too – love, joy, and all the things that make life worth it.
The second quote from John Paul II is related to the topic of freedom. A lot of people think freedom is about doing whatever you want, whenever you want. But real freedom isn’t about going wild; it’s about making choices that actually mean something. Pope John Paul II nailed this idea when he pointed out that true freedom comes with responsibility. Sure, it’s tempting to think freedom is just living on impulse – like eating cake for breakfast because no one’s stopping us. But the deeper truth? It’s not about indulging every whim. It’s about using our free will to choose what’s good, what’s right, and what aligns with our values. Freedom isn’t about selfishness; it’s about living in a way that serves others, lifts people up, and lets us live with integrity. In the end, doing the right thing feels a whole lot better than going down a path we’ll regret later.
“Faith is a knowledge within the heart, beyond the reach of proof.” (“Wiara to wiedza w sercu, poza zasięgiem dowodu.”)
― Adam Mickiewicz
“The worst prison would be a closed heart.”
― Pope John Paul II
“Freedom consists not in doing what we like, but in having the right to do what we ought.”
― Pope John Paul II
Thanks for reading and happy travels!
Mark (The New Mexico Travel Guy)
Mark Aspelin, The New Mexico Travel Guy (www.newmexicotravelguy.com), is a travel writer and author of two books who has enjoyed a wide variety of adventures in his travels to over 100 countries and all 50 U.S. States. His current project involves visiting EVERY town in his home state of New Mexico (there’s over 500 towns) and writing a story about each one. When not traveling, Mark lives as a recluse in the mountains outside of Albuquerque, New Mexico.
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