Your Estonia Road Trip Playlist: Tallinn, Soomaa National Park, and Pärnu
Taking a trip through the Baltic States is like stepping into a living storybook, where history, culture, and nature team up to deliver an unforgettable experience. We’ll start our journey in Estonia, a small country packed with attractive towns, unique landscapes, and a healthy dose of history.
In my first post of this Baltic road trip series, I shared some background on the region’s history and culture, so I won’t bore you by repeating myself here. We’ve got plenty of ground to cover, so I’ll just highlight some must-see spots along the way from Tallinn to the Latvian border. Next week, we’ll pick things up from there, heading from the border to Riga, Latvia’s capital, and eventually into Lithuania and Poland. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves. Estonia deserves its own moment in the spotlight first.
Table of Contents
Exploring Tallinn, Estonia: Medieval charm with modern comforts
Tallinn, Estonia, feels like stepping into a fairy tale, but with Wi-Fi that actually works. Often called the “Silicon Valley of Europe,” Tallinn has earned a reputation for its booming tech scene and a startup culture that’s as ambitious as it is innovative. It also happens to be the birthplace of Skype. While Skype was founded by a Swede and a Dane, the Skype software was created by Estonian computer whizzes in August 2003. The company was sold to eBay in 2005 for $2.6 billion. Not a bad return on investment.
Tallinn is a place where cobblestone streets meet sleek, glassy buildings, with lots of cafes, shops, and pubs thrown in along the way. Tallinn quickly turned into one of my favorite European capitals, though I’ll admit its compact size (around 450,000 people) might have played a role. We visited in October, well outside the peak season, so my experience might have been different if I’d visited during the summer months. I’ve heard that summer can get pretty busy with Baltic cruises and weekend revelers hopping on boats from Finland. What’s the big draw for the Finns? Cheap booze. Alcohol costs about half of what they’d pay back home, but they probably drink twice as much during their stay, so it’s probably a wash.
Most people visiting Tallinn make Old Town their first stop and we were no different. We decided to stay right in the heart of it by booking a hotel in Old Town. Being in the center of all the action was fantastic—with the exception of parking. We ended up parking the car about a ten-minute walk from the hotel, which meant dragging our luggage over cobblestone streets. Let’s just say our arms got a decent workout. Our cousin found it entertaining to watch, since he just had a backpack. That said, it was still worth staying in the Old Town.
In hindsight, we probably should’ve dropped off our bags at the hotel first before going on the hunt for a parking spot outside Old Town. But with much of the area being pedestrian-only, driving through Old Town wasn’t exactly a relaxing experience. Lesson learned for next time.
Wander through Tallinn Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site
The Old Town of Tallinn is a fun place to wander around, although your phone might decide to throw in the towel with all the snapshots you’ll want to take – historic buildings, pastel-colored houses, and alluring little shops are everywhere you look.
Speaking of photos, this post is going to be full of them – consider yourself warned! I’ll keep it simple by providing lots of pictures with captions under each one to give you a taste of what Tallinn’s Old Town has to offer.
A not-so-cheerful visit to the KGB prison cells in Old Town Tallinn
The KGB prison cells in Tallinn, tucked away in the basement of what used to be the KGB headquarters on Pagari Street, offer a sobering and haunting glimpse into Estonia’s oppressive Soviet past. These cells were used during the Stalinist era to detain, interrogate, and torture political prisoners, many of whom were resistance fighters or individuals accused of anti-Soviet activities. The grim conditions, with small, windowless cells reflect the harsh realities faced by those held here.
Today, the basement of the former KGB headquarters serves as a museum, preserving both the unsettling atmosphere and the stories of those who passed through its walls. It serves as an important reminder of the resilience of Estonians and their struggle for independence.
There was one tiny cell referred to as the “Cupboard” that was particularly cruel. The “Cupboard” cell was a tiny, windowless space used for solitary confinement, where prisoners were forced to stand or crouch in complete darkness and silence. Similar to the middle seat in Economy class on a long international flight, the Cupboard was designed to break inmates both physically and mentally, and it symbolizes the cruel tactics of the Soviet regime during Estonia’s occupation.
Unintentionally aligned with a prison atmosphere, the young woman manning the reception desk wasn’t exactly radiating warmth and good cheer. She barely looked up from her post, handling our transaction with the enthusiasm of someone filling out tax forms. Then again, it was oddly on-brand and fit the setting. We had a good laugh about it later. We didn’t dare laugh at the time as we feared she might put us in the Cupboard.
Spend a delicious day eating and drinking in Old Town Tallinn
When your feet start begging for a break, you’ll find no shortage of spots to relax and refuel. Restaurants, cafes, bakeries, shops, and pubs are all waiting to welcome you with open arms (and maybe a pastry or two).
Seeing so many bakeries stocked with pulla bread brought back fond memories. My grandmother on my dad’s side of the family grew up in Finland, and she used to bake pulla bread every time we visited her. If you’ve never had pulla, it’s a traditional Finnish sweet bread – soft, slightly dense, and generously scented with cardamom. It’s usually braided, topped with pearl sugar for a little crunch, and falls somewhere in the same category as brioche or challah. Pair it with a good cup of coffee or tea, and you’ve got yourself a moment of pure joy, particularly if you’re a Finn.
Here are a few photos to give you a glimpse of some of the variety of food and drink establishments you’ll find in Tallinn’s Old Town.
Nightlife in Tallinn, Estonia, including swing dancing?
When it comes to nightlife in Tallinn, you’ve got the usual suspects: historic pubs, rooftop spots with a view, trendy clubs, and plenty of places to grab a craft beer or a fancy cocktail. Nothing out of the ordinary there.
But what caught me off guard was discovering a swing dancing scene in Tallinn. Thanks to the Tallinn Swing Dance Society, you can find events featuring styles like lindy hop, shag, and balboa. By sheer luck, our trip coincided with a weekend event featuring swing dance workshops and evening dances with live music.
As someone who’s dabbled in swing dancing (and by dabbled, I mean I can hold my own without major embarrassment), I couldn’t pass up the chance to see what the Estonian swing scene was all about. My brother and cousin? They politely declined and stuck with more mainstream nightlife options. We had just stepped off a long international flight a few hours earlier, so we weren’t exactly bursting with energy.
After a quick shower to shake off the haze and a solid dinner to recharge, I felt somewhat human and was ready to give it a shot. I hailed a Bolt taxi (Tallinn’s answer to Uber since Bolt is actually based here) and was taken 20 minutes out of Old Town to the venue. When I arrived, two towering security guards greeted me, looking a bit unimpressed with my black HOKA running shoes, which weren’t exactly ballroom-ready. Still, they let me in. I’m guessing my cash payment for the entry fee didn’t hurt.
Inside, there was a lively crowd, with the David Hermlin Trio (from Berlin) setting the mood with a playlist from the 1930s and ’40s. It turned out to be a fun event and I had a chance to meet and dance with quite a few locals. The quality and style of swing dancing proved to be very similar to what I experience at home.
A special thanks to the Tallinn Swing Dance Society for being so welcoming. It was a great night, mismatched footwear and all!
Soomaa National Park
After a great time in Tallinn, we packed up and hit the road, heading toward the coastal town of Pärnu. Before reaching our destination, we decided to take a welcome break to stretch our legs at Soomaa National Park. There was no visitor center, and the signage was so subtle that we drove by the parking lot before realizing it was the right place.
Soomaa National Park is a slice of untouched wilderness in Southwestern Estonia. It’s a mix of wetlands, rivers, and dense forests that feels like stepping into another world. Established in 1993, the park covers over 150 square miles (390 square kilometers) and is best known for its dramatic “fifth season.” Every spring, melting snow floods the area, turning it into a dreamy, watery wonderland. And yes, you may experience mosquitoes that attempt to shatter that dream, depending on when you visit. We were lucky on the mosquito front, but we missed out on experiencing Soomaa’s fifth season.
There’s no shortage of ways to enjoy the park. You can paddle through its peaceful waters in a canoe, take a hike to enjoy the fresh air, go bog walking for an up-close look at its ancient peat bogs, or jump into one of the bogs for a “refreshing” swim. Wooden boardwalks wind through the landscape, with plenty of fantastic views and a chance to spot local wildlife such as beavers, moose, and the occasional crane. The only wildlife we saw two species of birds … a great tit and a crested tit. For my non-birder friends, yes, those bird names are real.
Discovering Pärnu: Estonia’s summer Capital … and tourist desert the rest of the year
Known as Estonia’s summer capital, Pärnu is where locals flock the moment the sun starts shining. Think long stretches of sandy beaches, ice cream cones melting faster than you can eat them, and avid sunbathers who wouldn’t leave even if it suddenly started snowing. You also have famous mud baths, because what better way to unwind than by getting covered in therapeutic mud?
Away from the beach, Pärnu’s old town has its own unique vibe. Its colorful wooden houses and cobblestone streets look like they belong in a postcard, or at least in yet another photo on your camera. You’ll find cafes serving pastries and drinks that can easily help you lose track of time. You’ll also find street musicians and plenty of partying.
All the above is true … UNLESS you’re visiting outside of the summer months. Off-season, you’ll likely have the place to yourself. That was our experience in October. Most of the places we visited were completely empty or filled with a handful of locals.
In Closing
As you can see, Pärnu’s a beautiful spot, and it’s no doubt a lively place in the summer. While our visit to Pärnu was eerily quiet, we enjoyed it and were glad we visited.
I hope this photo tour of Tallinn, Soomaa, and Pärnu gives you a few ideas of what you might like to do during your visit to Estonia! We barely scratched the surface of what the country has to offer. There’s so much more to see, and I’d happily go back someday for a deeper dive into the other corners of this beautiful country.
Next stop: Latvia.
Thought for the Week
While exploring quotes about Estonia, I stumbled upon a few Estonian proverbs that caught my attention. They provide an interesting glimpse into the country’s culture and way of thinking. Most of these sayings have been passed down for centuries, yet I’m told they’re still part of everyday conversations. Given that I don’t speak a word of Estonian, I’ll just have to trust that’s true.
- Make fun of the man, not of his hat (narri meest, mitte mehe mütsi)
- Don’t sell the bear skin until you have the bear (ära karu nahka enne ära müü, kui karu käes on)
- Don’t rejoice before the evening (ära hõiska enne õhtut)
- He who helps himself will be helped by others (kes aitab ennast ise, seda aitavad ka teised)
- The work will teach the worker (töö õpetab tegijat)
- He who is late will be left without (kes hiljaks jääb, see ilma jääb)
- A man by his word, an ox by his horn (meest sõnast, härga sarvest)
- He who has patience will live long (kes kannatab, see kaua elab)
- The morning is wiser than the evening (hommik on õhtust targem)
- A lie has short legs (valel on lühikesed jalad)
- Old love does not rust (vana arm ei roosteta)
- Steady row, far you’ll go (tasa sõuad, kaugele jõuad)
Thanks for reading and happy travels!
Mark (The New Mexico Travel Guy)
Mark Aspelin, The New Mexico Travel Guy (www.newmexicotravelguy.com), is a travel writer and author of two books who has enjoyed a wide variety of adventures in his travels to over 100 countries and all 50 U.S. States. His current project involves visiting EVERY town in his home state of New Mexico (there’s over 500 towns) and writing a story about each one. When not traveling, Mark lives as a recluse in the mountains outside of Albuquerque, New Mexico.
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